Charterhouse Square, and the block of flats now known as Florin Court and as Whitehaven Mansions in the Hercule Poirot TV series, fictional home to the great detective |
The block of flats was designed in 1936 by Guy Morgan (no relation) for professionals and City managers as a “pied-a-terre” during the
week while working in the City.
As a result, the flats were small, with mainly one or two
bedrooms and very small kitchens and bathrooms. There was porterage, a
restaurant and bar in the basement, a swimming pool, a car park and two squash
courts.
All this changed during the Blitz when the Charterhouse itself was destroyed and the pensioners were evacuated to Godalming.
Two buildings in the square were gutted, and the area
between Aldersgate and Moorgate was completely flattened except for Cripplegate
Church, which was still standing but without a roof. The City offices and staff
were moved wherever possible to offices in the West End. The residents had been
given Planning Approval for office use while the City was rebuilt.
In 1935 my father was posted to The City of
London Division and we left Catterick Camp for a flat in Maida Vale. In 1947 he decided to retire from the Army
after serving in China, Gallipoli, the Western Front and India with the South
Wales Borderers, who were moving to Hong Kong. He became the Secretary of the
Territorial Army Association
at Finsbury Barracks.
My sister Joan and I moved for the umpteenth time to
local schools and my brother Robert joined Charrington’s Coal, and at the same time was cramming for entry to
Cranwell College.
My mother and her two sisters inherited a legacy
including glass and china from Uncle Dick Sprague, the American Consul in
Gibraltar. As a result, my mother managed to buy a small four-bedroom house at
18 Ladbroke Road, Notting Hill Gate. My brother passed
first into Cranwell and my sister was sent to a finishing school in
Switzerland, and I was given a bicycle with 3 gears!
When my sister returned from Switzerland, she joined the
BBC and went to Alexandra Palace when
television was in its infancy. My father also suggested to her that she should
join the ATS.
On May 8 1939, my brother Robert was tragically killed in
a mid air collision with a fellow cadet while flying near Cranwell, which
obviously shattered my family. He was about to receive the Sword of Honour.
When war was declared my sister was already on her way
north to an unknown destination, promoted Lance Corporal, and became a WAAF.
She was asked to sign the Official Secrets Act and was then lectured by Watson
Watt on the mysteries of RADAR. Later she thought that she had been taken to
the Code Breaking Centre at Bletchley park.
My father had rejoined the Army and sent to The City of London Division at Hay on Wye. I had been sent down to a
“crammers” in Horsham to
catch up on my lack of education, and to pass the School Certificate.
On return to Ladbroke Road I first of all decided that I
wanted to be an aircraft designer and joined Fairey Aviation at Hayes Middlesex
as a student apprentice, working at a bench with the prototype Barracuda being
assembled in the centre of the works. I left Fairey Aviation and joined the
Army in a Young Soldier’s Battalion, the Royal Warwickshire Regiment, and was
posted directly down to the New Forest, where the Battalion were doing their
summer training under canvas.
My mother realised that as the rest of the family had
moved away, she decided to let the house to the Russian Embassy and moved out
of London to stay with friends.
When the threat of invasion receded, my father was posted
up to London to the War Office and promoted Brigadier. As we had let our house
he managed to find a flat in Charterhouse Square at the time when the area was not very popular due to continuous bombing.
It now appears that Kate Watkins’ parents lived in the flats, but moved out due to the
bombing! Luckily, the block had a concrete roof, and the Air Raid wardens
(including residents) were able to dispose of the incendiary bombs.
The remainder of the residents would seek shelter in the
basement and bar, which was still operating.
My father persuaded the management to allow our cocker
spaniel Chum to live in the flats. The only problem was when we had an air
raid; the lifts were closed and he or my mother (who had by now joined him) had
to walk down nine flights to the Square. Chum died on the steps of the War
Office in 1943. When I heard the sad news from my father I was in Italy and
shed a tear!
My sister had a car accident while taking official
documents to outlying RAF stations and ended up convalescing in
Torquay, where she met a Polish Pilot Officer, Jerzy (George),
and they were married and had their reception in the
restaurant of Charterhouse Square.
At the end of the war, my family moved to Eastbourne with
Joan and her young son Robert. Unfortunately her husband had been killed flying
over the Azores ferrying Mosquitoes to Europe.
My father managed to pass the flat to his sister Mrs
Taylor, and later her sister, Mrs Cooper, also
acquired a flat in the building.
When I returned from the Middle East after the war, I was
demobbed and shortly after enrolled at the Bartlett School of Architecture. As
my parents had moved to Eastbourne, my aunt kindly allowed me to stay in her
flat, until I burnt the electric kettle!
When I had to find alternative accommodation luckily the
management were very kind to a student on a Government grant, and I was given a
very small flat on the half-landing of the
eighth floor.
In the second year, I invited an Interior Design student
Felicity James to supper. She didn’t like the
pressure cooked meal I had provided, which was disposed of down the loo!
Somehow, she managed to miss the last train back to Kensington High Street and
being a resourceful ex-Wren (boat’s crew), she
found my camp bed and laid it outside in the corridor with a pillow and blanket
for
me. The porter was highly amused the next morning when he
came to empty the dustbin!
Sometime later, I was invited by Felicity down to
Bedhampton to meet her parents. To prove that I was a man of worth, I bought
Commander James’s Triumph 500 motor bike for £50 and a year later
Felicity and I married at Holy Trinity, Brompton, and were provided with a
slightly larger flat at £75 per annum ‘rent restricted‘. This included heating, hot water and porterage, and I was allowed to park
the motor bike in the basement car park.
By this time Felicity had left the Bartlett and started
working part time at Story’s in Kensington at
approximately £1 per day. It is surprising how many friends one could entertain
in a one room flat: on the bed, on the floor, and in the corridor. We would give small supper parties where she would buy
a chicken from Mr Hartley in Farringdon Road. At this time rationing was still
on and a chicken was about the only product fit for a party, apart from whale
meat!
I used to ride down to Lulworth to attend courses in
gunnery as I had joined the Inns of Court Regiment with their HQ in Chancery Lane, and we kept our armoured cars in Gray’s Inn. Felicity would come down by train and stay with a
Wren friend in Studland, and in the evenings we would tour the Dorset coastline - petrol was 1s 6d per gallon! On
another occasion we were invited down to the Henley Regatta and on the way we
had a puncture outside Marlow. We were given cups of tea by a kind old lady and
ended our journey by taxi, leaving the poor old bike on the side
of the road.
As a result I realised that four wheels were better than
two and bought a 1927 Singer 16 with cast iron wheels and a canvas hood for £25. I parked this jalopy in front of the flats, sometimes
next to a magnificent drop head Bentley owned by the Chairman of Crosse and
Blackwell.
I had now qualified as an architect, but found it
difficult to get a job. I wrote to all the main architectural firms, but each
one apologised that they were unable to employ me due to the lack of work and
the licensing required for building. The only exception was Guy Morgan (as said, no relation), possibly due to the fact that I was
living in a flat which
he had designed before the War, who had offices in
Eaton Square.
After a short time he was able to employ me at £600 a
year. I worked with four other assistants with our drawing boards on the
billiard table. I was then moved down to a small office in the basement and
given sites of bombed out buildings to evaluate the potential for
redevelopment. One such site was in Piccadilly next to the Turf Club, which I
designed, and much to the satisfaction of the client, received Planning
Approval. At the Coronation I marched past the site, which had been converted
into a grandstand for the occasion.
By this time I felt that I was worth more than £600,
especially as our second son Adrian had been born. Guy Morgan made all the
excuses, so I walked back to Charterhouse Square to
tell my wife that I was now unemployed.
I set up my drawing board over my desk and tried to
design buildings, one of which was for a fellow resident’s mother who lived near Petworth. A few days after I had
set up my drawing board, my other possible client decided not to proceed. I
found it difficult to concentrate, so managed to rent a room above Northern Rock in Curzon Street, adjoining a fellow architect, whose father was our immediate neighbour. Being on the fifth
floor, I only saw the occasional rep who came to see my next door neighbour.
One day I received a phone call from my landlord’s secretary asking me down to see him at 9.00am as he was
a busy man. That night we were anxious that perhaps my father had not paid the
£150 rent as he was now stationed in Germany with the Army of Occupation.
Alternatively that I was practicing illegally in a private flat!
I was introduced to my landlord Kenneth Rees Reynolds who immediately asked me to join him for
breakfast. He was a Chartered Surveyor and by pure chance had met another
surveyor who happened to be a client for whom I had designed a building in
Piccadilly.
It appeared that before the War he had commissioned Guy
Morgan to design the Charterhouse Square block of flats. His family owned a number of
properties in London and some had suffered war damage. He had commissioned an
architect Norman Aylwin to develop a bombed site in Soho and who wondered
whether I would help to solve the difficult problem. I think he was pleased to hand
over the commission to me, as he was involved in other work and I suspect that
his client Rees Reynolds was a taskmaster. I managed to solve the problem and
get Planning
Approval.
In the meantime he asked me to look at another site in
High Holborn which was owned by his family and had been badly bombed. Having
obtained approval, he asked me to proceed with the work. I realised that I had
little or no experience in running a contract and managed to persuade David
Branch, whom I had
only recently met at Seely and Paget, to join me. I managed to
persuade the management to let him have a two roomed flat overlooking the
Square and he moved in with Jean from Cloth Fair, with their bed on their
Austin 7, and left their flat to John Betjeman, a friend of Lord Mottisham
(John Seely).
Rees Reynolds very kindly allowed me to rent a very small
flat as an office. It was not long before there were four of us working there
and a secretary with a typewriter resting on the draining board in the kitchen.
Flat 115 had been occupied before the War by a well known
yacht designer Morgan Giles and was probably ideal as a “pied-a-terre”. Although
we were eternally grateful to my father for managing to pass the flat from one
generation to another it was hardly ideal for a family of four.
There was a magnificent view from the convex
non-reflecting window on to the Plane trees below and from the balcony the view
of Smithfield Market in the foreground, St Paul’s, the Old Bailey and the GPO tower in the middle distance, and Hampstead
on the horizon.
Unfortunately the flat itself had a number of drawbacks:
the kitchen was tiny and, with a washing machine against the door onto the
corridor, Felicity was unable to get out of the kitchen as the other door had
stuck. However, all was well in the end!
The internal bathroom was also very small and the washing
line had
to go over the bath. There were no fitted cupboards so I
managed to erect a hanging rail or two. The second bedroom for the two boys David and Adrian meant
that I had to build two bunk beds. To keep them
amused I laid a plywood panel on the floor hinged to the skirting board on
which they laid their train set, which could be hoisted up against the wall
when not in use!
However, the balcony was a godsend, as it gave us fresh air and made a play area which, in summer,
included a paddling pool with water being splashed onto the pavement below! In the winter, they even made a
snowman!
Although very happy there, from time to time we looked at
alternative options of moving, but at that time being self employed I was
ineligible for a mortgage.
We had outgrown our small office and moved to Great New
Street. At last I bought a slightly better car for £75 from an “Arfur Daly”, and was allowed
to keep it in the underground garage having fun with the turntable to get into my allotted bay.
As the surrounding area of
Charterhouse Square had been bombed, there were no local shops apart from the
dairy on the corner of Carthusian Street and the Sutton Arms, and its “Jug and Bottle”.
The alternative was for Felicity to take the pram past
Smithfield Market - and the ‘bummerees’ wolf whistling - to Farringdon Road butcher and grocer.
To give the children some exercise they would go either down to the Square
below or the Postman’s park behind St Botulph’s.
While we were in residence we were woken up in the early
hours by a fireball racing through the roof of part of Smithfield Market and
lived with the smell of burnt carcasses for at least a month. Also the Great
Smog which brought London to a standstill, and culminated in the Clean Air Act.
By chance, I met an Army friend who invited us to dinner
at their house in Hampstead. He told us that he was renting his house and
introduced me to the Hampstead Garden Suburb Trust, who seemed to be
delighted to help. In a very short time I was offered a house which I couldn’t possibly refuse, and we left Flat 115 to go to 17
Thornton Way.
Sometime later Charles Harman Hunt, Rees Reynold’s partner phoned me to say that the flat opposite in
Balfour Place had become vacant and were we interested. It was another offer I
could not refuse and we moved the office to Mayfair. After five years, when the office lease expired, we moved
to Tilney Street, a stone’s throw from the Dorchester and Playboy Club, and round
the corner from the Cavalry Club where I would stay.
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